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Mk IV Assembly Instructions

2 May 2025

Assembly Instructions for the Precision Clock Mk IV.

All parts in the kit

Tools needed

List of components

Two circuit boards:

Two printed circuit boards

Nineteen 1-inch common cathode 7-segment displays:

7-segment display 10016AH

Four 3D printed parts:

Four 3D-printed parts

Seven laser cut parts – three in black 6mm delrin, two in white 5mm delrin, one in white 3mm delrin, and one in acetate film:

Laser cut pieces of delrin and acetate

Three magnets (3mm thickness, 4mm dia):

Three magnets

Six M3 x 20mm button-head bolts:

Six M3 bolts

Six M3 nuts:

Six M3 nuts

One board-to-board cable (Molex 0369200400):

Board to board cable

One Hall effect sensor (TSH253CT B0G):

Hall sensor

Four 3mm flat-top diffused LEDs:

Four flat-top 3mm LEDs

One LDR (GL5528):

LDR

Two 12mm push switches:

Two tactile switches

One CR2032 coin cell:

CR2032 3V coin cell

One micro-USB cable:

Micro-USB cable

One SMA GPS antenna:

GPS antenna with SMA connector

Steps

1. Prepare digits

You are welcome to peel off the protective film, however I now think it's best to leave the film in place, particularly if you plan to handle the clock a lot, as it prevents the digits from getting scuffed and scratched. The plastic is white underneath so damage to the black finish can be quite visible.

However, the film protrudes over the edge of the digits and looks messy, so I run a sharp knife along each edge to clean it up.

Run a sharp knife along the edge of the digit to trim the plastic film

While you have the knife out, it's worth cleaning up the 3D printed parts too if they need it. Any stringy bits of plastic near the tabs can interfere with them, in the worst case leading to them snapping when you come to fit them.

2. Hall effect sensor

Hall sensor next to footprint U15

The hall sensor is the most difficult part to solder because the legs are very close together. It needs to be fitted to the date side of the clock, with the outline matching the white silkscreen labelled U15. If you fit it backwards, it won't work.

Hall sensor ready to solder

Place the board flat on the desk and check the part is flush to the board, then solder the three legs. If solder bridges between the legs, you'll need to use solder wick or a solder-sucker to fix it. Once soldered, trim the legs short.

Hall sensor fitted

The rest of the parts have more space between the pins, so should be easier.

3. Hinge support pieces

Place the 5mm-thick white delrin part over the hall sensor. The "dirty" side should face the board, and the curved edge should match the board outline.

First delrin piece sits over hall sensor

Place a rectangular black 6mm delrin part on top, and fit it together using two M3 bolts. Note the black rectangles are not rotationally symmetrical, make sure the bottom of the plastic parts line up. If it doesn't, rotate the black rectangle 180 degrees.

Second delrin part fitted

You can then secure this to the board using M3 nuts. Screw the nut on most of the way by hand, then hold it tight with pliers or a wrench while tightening the bolt with a 2.0mm hex key. It doesn't need to be super tight, just secure.

M3 Nuts fitted to back of board

4. Fit first digit

It's essential that the digits next to the hinge are flush with it. Different suppliers of 7-segment displays put the pins in slightly different places, so you may need to bend the legs to get it to line up.

First digit in position

You want the digit to be flush to the plastic, and the plastic to be aligned to the board edge. If there's a gap between the digit and the plastic, try to shift the digit closer, as the gap will result in slop in the hinge when the clock is finished.

Once soldered down, it becomes much harder to adjust this, so give everything a wiggle and make sure you are happy with it.

Also make sure that the decimal point of the digit aligns with the markings on the board.

You can then solder the first digit in place. Be extremely careful not to touch the wire-to-board connector with your soldering iron. The plastic will melt and ruin it.

It may help to put the board on the edge of a desk, or some scrap material, to get the digit flush to the board with the bolt heads present. It may also help to support the other end of the board with a spare digit.

5. Fit rest of the digits to the date side

Fit and solder the rest of the digits, adjusting the legs as necessary. Make sure they are flush to the board when you solder them. A spare piece of plywood or cardboard on the desk can be useful, with the bolt heads hanging off the end.

Using some scrap board to support the digits

Or you could even use the polystyrene foam that the digits were shipped with.

A nice technique is to first solder just one or two legs for each digit, then wiggle the digits into position so they are all aligned, then solder the remaining pins.

Once again remember to check that the digits are the right way up, the decimal point needs to align with the white outlines on the board.

6. Fit push switches

Before soldering the switches, notice that their legs stick out the back, which means that if you press the switch with thumb and forefinger, it would be uncomfortable.

Switch legs stick out the back of the clock

One option is to simply fold them flat, or you could potentially trim or file down the legs after soldering, but I find it's best to trim the legs of the switches before soldering.

Switch legs trimmed flush before soldering

This does make it harder to solder them, as they no longer snap into place, so go with whichever you feel comfortable with. The ground pins will need a lot of heat to melt the solder (in the next revision of the board, I will probably add more thermal relief).

You only need to solder the signal wire (with the track visible) and one of the ground pins for each switch. If it looks like this, you're golden:

Only two pins of each switch soldered

Don't fit the 3D printed part yet! You can now put the date board to one side and start on the other board.

Date-side soldering finished

7. (Optional) Solder underside of SMA connector

Out of the box, the SMA connector is only soldered on the top side of the PCB. While this is perfectly functional from an electrical point of view, you can increase the mechanical strength by soldering the underside.

Underside of SMA connector soldered

There is a fair amount of thermal mass to the connector, so it will need a high temperature and some patience.

Once again this step is optional, if you are new to soldering I would recommend skipping this rather than risk damaging the connector.

8. Time hinge

Take the remaining 5mm white delrin part and black 6mm rectangle, and assemble to the board the same as with the other side. This time, instead of a hall sensor, we want to fit one of the small magnets in the gap.

Small magnet fitted into delrin part

The bolts are magnetic so this can be fiddly. It doesn't matter which way round the magnet goes – the sensor detects absolute field strength.

Black rectangle and bolts fitted

Again make sure the plastic aligns with the board edge (ensure the black rectangle is the correct rotation) and tighten using pliers and a 2.0mm allen/hex key.

M3 nuts tightened

9. Fit the next two digits

Once again, it's important to get this part right or the hinge will not behave correctly. The adjacent digit has to be flush to the plastic. In these pictures, there was a small gap present, so I bent the legs to make sure the digit sits in the right place. I solder just two pins of each digit first, and make sure everything feels right, then solder the rest. Be very careful soldering around the wire-to-board connector.

First two digits of the time side soldered, legs adjusted to get them flush to the hinge

10. Fit colons

There are two 3D printed colon holders. (The 3D printed switch cover looks similar but the holes are slightly larger and not staggered vertically.)

Push the 3mm LEDs into them with the legs in the same orientation to match the board. The 3D-printed part is rotationally symmetrical. The LEDs should be a push fit, it sometimes helps to use a screwdriver or tweezers to seat them fully.

Colons fitted to 3D printed part

The LEDs have a polarity: long leg is +. Make sure they will mount the correct way.

With the LED legs threaded through the board, push the printed part's tabs over the board so it snaps into place. The 3D printed plastic is delicate and can break if you are careless here. Hook one tab over first, then gently push the other one into place.

3D printed colon piece fitted

Don't force it, if it won't snap into place, you can trim the plastic tabs with a knife.

There is intentionally some horizontal play in the tabs so you can slide it up to the digits. When you are happy, solder the LEDs in place and trim the legs short.

11. Fit the rest of the digits and colons

From here you can fit the remaining digits and colons in the same manner as before. The positions are not nearly as important. I'm a perfectionist so I tend to align everything as well as possible, but it's only the digits next to the hinge that really matter.

12. Fit magnets

Fitting magnets into the remaining 3D printed parts will help keep the clock together in the folded position. If you don't care about that you can skip this step.

Start by placing one magnet into a receptacle as shown in the picture.

Position of first magnet before being pressed into place

It then needs to be pushed downwards, at a slight angle, to snap into the correct place.

Magnet pushed into place

If you're dextrous you can do this with your fingers, but a plastic implement will make it much easier. Something stiff but non-magnetic. Any attempts to use metal pliers will lead to frustration.

A good tool I have found to do this is the back of a ballpoint pen, with the little cap pulled out.

Back of ballpoint pen used to seat the magnet

Back of ballpoint pen used to seat the magnet

You can tell when it's seated correctly by placing the other magnet on the outside, it should be centred in the rectangle.

Remaining magnet used to confirm position

For the second part, you need to make sure the magnet's orientation is correct, otherwise they will repel one another. I start by placing the two parts together, then letting the magnet find its attractive orientation.

Set the remaining magnet in the correct orientation

From here, again pressing with the back of a ballpoint pen should seat the magnet correctly.

Two 3D printed parts align correctly with magnets fitted

13. Fit switch cover

You can now fit the switch cover. Make sure the magnetic end is facing up, relative to the digits, so that it aligns correctly when the clock folds. You may need to use tweezers or pliers to wiggle the switches through the holes. It should snap into place easily, without excess force.

Switch cover fitted to date side

Once fitted, the buttons should press freely. If they're rubbing or jammed against the plastic, you'll need to wiggle things around. In the worst case you may need to remove the plastic part, and either re-solder the switches, or make the holes a tiny bit bigger with a drill bit.

14. Fit LDR

The LDR goes within the last 3D printed part and should be pushed flush. There is a varying amount of varnish on these parts, if it doesn't fit perfectly don't worry. As you solder it, the warmth will slightly deform the plastic to a perfect fit.

LDR fits to last 3D printed part

The LDR has no polarity and can be fitted either way. The 3D printed part needs the magnetic side to point upwards.

3D printed part snapped into place

Be very careful not to touch the other components as you solder these last joints.

LDR legs ready to solder

You can push the clock flat on the desk as you solder, to help keep the LDR flush to the face. Finally trim the legs.

LDR legs soldered and trimmed

LDR fitted flush

15. Prepare cable

The Pico EZ-mate cable comes with a label that needs to be removed. Unpeel it or cut it away, then clean the wires of any sticky residue (isopropyl alcohol works well).

16. Construct hinge

The holes in the remaining white part are slightly undersize, and the bolts should form threads into them as they are tightened. The "clean" side of the white piece should face the circuit board, so that the kerf of the laser cutter, which is slightly conical, makes it easier for the threads to bite.

Start by pushing the two bolts through the black delrin piece, then through the two halves of the clock, and then a bit at a time, alternately tighten them into the white delrin.

Last pieces of delrin fitted to form the hinge

You need to tighten these bolts all the way, then back off very slightly. The idea is to set the hinge tension with the bolts, then use the last nuts to lock the tension in place.

Before fitting the lock nuts, you also need to fit the cable and its holder, the laser-cut piece of acetate. To connect the cable, you place each end over the socket and push towards the PCB.

Hinge cable fitted

Fold the acetate over, and then very gently tighten the lock nuts, being careful not to trap the cable.

For the first use of the hinge, you will need to guide the cable so that it bends correctly. Do this very slowly and gently so that it learns to bend the correct way.

Hinge folded for the first time, guide the cable correctly

You can then work the hinge back and forth a few times, and when you're happy with it you can give the nuts a final tighten.

Hinge unfolded for the first time

17. Trim legs of digits

Totally optional, but the clock is much nicer to handle if the legs of the digits are trimmed flush. Just be careful around the hinge area not to damage the wire-to-board connectors.

Trimming the legs of the digits

18. Power on

Fit the coin cell into the holder, connect the antenna, plug in the USB cable and see if it works.

On very first power-up, you may see a loading animation while it flashes the firmware image.

It should then show a placeholder time and date (2000-01-01) while it searches for GPS signal. After finding one satellite, it should update to the approximate UTC time.

Once it gets a full GPS fix, it should update to local time with full precision. With the coin-cell backup, future power-on should be faster.

Check the buttons work, they should cycle back and forth through the modes. Check the date display inverts when the clock is folded in half.

All done! You may want to check if there are any firmware or database updates for the clock, and perhaps check out the documentation to play with specific modes and features.

Troubleshooting

I will fill out this section with common problems as they become apparent. In the mean time send me an email or post on the forum.

3D printed parts: don't stress if they break, the tabs are only meant as a convenience but it's fine to just use glue. In the worst case you could 3D print the parts again, the STL files are in the cad folder of the clock4 repo.

Antennas

A variety of GPS antennas can be used with the clock. The SMA connector provides a 3.3V bias voltage to power an active antenna.

The widely available "puck" antennas on a 3 metre cable work fine. You can also use an SMA extension cable (usually RG174, but anything 50ohm will work) to position the antenna further away. There will be some losses in the cable, but that's usually worth it for the benefit of a better antenna position. The delay to the timepulse is negligible, it's around 5 nanoseconds for every metre of cable.

There's a large number of alternate antennas available and most, if not all, should be supported. For portability, you can get a reasonably small helical stubby GPS antenna. These are still quite large for what I would consider a stubby antenna, but they work well, and unlike the patch antennas should have some resistance to erroneous GPS signals caused by reflections off of buildings. Helical stubby antenna attached to clock in folded position

I also prepared some tiny antennas by taking an active patch antenna and crimping an SMA connector as close as possible to it. Even with the correct stripping and crimping tools, the SMA connectors are a pain to fit, so bare that in mind if you want to attempt it. Two SMA patch antennas, one with a 3D printed case

The 3D printed case is very thin and has no effect on the signal. The design files for it are here.

Patch antenna fitted to clock in unfolded position

If one were inclined, it's probably possible to fit an even smaller antenna onto an SMA connector.

Some antennas are billed as GPS+GLONASS, whereas others are GPS exclusively. The slightly wider bandwidth for the dual antenna may have a tiny effect on the overall GPS reception, but I haven't tested this. While the GPS module can pick up both, it only derives the time signal from the GPS satellites.

Wall hanging

I frequently describe the clock as a "Wall Clock" to make it clear that its function is a precision display of the time, rather than a reference oscillator. However, actually mounting an unmodified clock on a wall is not something I made provisions for. Mostly because the PCB screw holes on the previous clock were never particularly satisfying in use, and the hinge complicates things.

Anyway, here are a few 3D printed options for wall-mounting.

Closeup of clock in folded position hanging on wall

Here's a clip to hold the clock in the folded position. Print on its side. Use some picture wire or string between the clips.

CAD model of hanger for folded clock

The same idea can be applied to the unfolded clock, with a shorter version of the same clip:

Two clocks, one in the folded position, hanging on a wall

CAD model of hanger for unfolded clock

However it also needs something to keep the hinge from folding, if held from the ends like that. One option is to lock the hinge with a part like this:

CAD model of hinge lock

It press-fits over one of the bolts on the back, and allows you to latch the clock open. It can be 3D printed, but with only a few actuations it may start to wear down. I would recommend laser-cutting it in Delrin for maximum strength.

Another option is to hang the unfolded clock from the middle, with this shape that presses onto all six bolts:

CAD model of alternate design for hanger of unfolded clock

Rear view of central bracket

This is pretty secure, the main disadvantage is that it's harder to adjust the clock to make it level. Depending on how you route the cables, that may or may not be an issue.

Clock hanging from a central bracket

Or you could combine this method of locking the hinge with the other style of clip to hold it from the ends.

The design files for all of the above wall hangers are in the github repo here.